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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.